MSM Team Garage Form - 2011 Toyota Aygo (Hero Car)
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MSM Team Garage Form - 2011 Toyota Aygo (Hero Car)
Classification:
Make - Toyota
Model - Aygo
Year - 2011
Class/PI - F 200
Vitals:
HP - 92
Torque - 84
Weight(lbs) - 1919
Distribution - 59%
Displacement - 1.0L
Drive Type - FWD
Statistics:
Speed - 3.0
Handling - 5.7
Accel - 3.9
Launch - 4.5
Braking - 5.8
Benchmark:
0-60 -
0-100 -
1/4 Mile -
Lat G 60 -
Lat G 120 -
Key Upgrades:
Race Springs, Anti-Roll bars, differential, adjustable wings: These are all mandatory for any tune, and doesn't cost a lot of PI anyways.
Race tires: Almost always mandatory if PI permits it.
Sport weight reduction: would have liked race, but didn't had the PI to do it.
Race rollcage: accel wasn't that important for this series due to the tracks and cars. More stability for more weight is fine
Sport Transmission: Wanted an adjustable transmission to be in the power band as much as possible, but there wasn't enough shifting in these cars for a Race trans.
Race Centrifugal Supercharger, Race Oil and Cooling: Gives you the most hp for the less PI (because of weight increase)
Sport air filter: filler to get to 200PI.
Additional Comments:
This car was created and tuned by Buldzjin. He used this car to win 2 races in the Starter Car series, which was the first MSM series in FM4.
TUNE
Tires: Front 33.5psi, Rear, 31.5psi. Seems new for FM4: almost all the top LB cars were running 37psi front and 33.5psi rear at race temp.
Gear: Finale gear 4.90. Made sure to adjust the final gear so I would be in the power band as much as possible. On suzuka through all the essess I was at 500rpm from the red line.
Camber: -0.9 / -0.9 (Front / Rear) - Always around 1deg is good.
Toe: 0.2 (out) / -0.1 (in) - Since this is FWD and understeer is a problem, 0.2out will help the car "looking" for a turn. on a MR for example you'll go more with 0.1/-0.2 so the rear wheel will try to stay straight out of the corner.
Anti Roll Bar: 10.30 / 27.70 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Spring: 455.5 / 398.0 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Height: 4.5 / 4.5 - as low as possible w/o getting suspension dmg.
Rebound: 5.1 / 3.9 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Bump: 3.8 / 3.1 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Aero: 100 / 137 - Kept the mid areo for the rear, but went to the max on the front to minimize understeer.
Diff: front: 20% accel / 15% decel. - Tried different accel settings, but didn't really saw a change, so I kept it low to be safe (reduce understeer) as for Decel, adding this 15% makes the car stable when you let go the gas. When I had it at 0% as soon as I let go the gas the rear was going out.
Pictures:
Make - Toyota
Model - Aygo
Year - 2011
Class/PI - F 200
Vitals:
HP - 92
Torque - 84
Weight(lbs) - 1919
Distribution - 59%
Displacement - 1.0L
Drive Type - FWD
Statistics:
Speed - 3.0
Handling - 5.7
Accel - 3.9
Launch - 4.5
Braking - 5.8
Benchmark:
0-60 -
0-100 -
1/4 Mile -
Lat G 60 -
Lat G 120 -
Key Upgrades:
Race Springs, Anti-Roll bars, differential, adjustable wings: These are all mandatory for any tune, and doesn't cost a lot of PI anyways.
Race tires: Almost always mandatory if PI permits it.
Sport weight reduction: would have liked race, but didn't had the PI to do it.
Race rollcage: accel wasn't that important for this series due to the tracks and cars. More stability for more weight is fine
Sport Transmission: Wanted an adjustable transmission to be in the power band as much as possible, but there wasn't enough shifting in these cars for a Race trans.
Race Centrifugal Supercharger, Race Oil and Cooling: Gives you the most hp for the less PI (because of weight increase)
Sport air filter: filler to get to 200PI.
Additional Comments:
This car was created and tuned by Buldzjin. He used this car to win 2 races in the Starter Car series, which was the first MSM series in FM4.
TUNE
Tires: Front 33.5psi, Rear, 31.5psi. Seems new for FM4: almost all the top LB cars were running 37psi front and 33.5psi rear at race temp.
Gear: Finale gear 4.90. Made sure to adjust the final gear so I would be in the power band as much as possible. On suzuka through all the essess I was at 500rpm from the red line.
Camber: -0.9 / -0.9 (Front / Rear) - Always around 1deg is good.
Toe: 0.2 (out) / -0.1 (in) - Since this is FWD and understeer is a problem, 0.2out will help the car "looking" for a turn. on a MR for example you'll go more with 0.1/-0.2 so the rear wheel will try to stay straight out of the corner.
Anti Roll Bar: 10.30 / 27.70 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Spring: 455.5 / 398.0 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Height: 4.5 / 4.5 - as low as possible w/o getting suspension dmg.
Rebound: 5.1 / 3.9 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Bump: 3.8 / 3.1 - I know the basics of this but I'm using a calculator to get the basic number... and I rarely touch them as they usually feels right.
Aero: 100 / 137 - Kept the mid areo for the rear, but went to the max on the front to minimize understeer.
Diff: front: 20% accel / 15% decel. - Tried different accel settings, but didn't really saw a change, so I kept it low to be safe (reduce understeer) as for Decel, adding this 15% makes the car stable when you let go the gas. When I had it at 0% as soon as I let go the gas the rear was going out.
Pictures:
Dominic Mako- Admin
- Race Number : 32
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